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PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2010 5:26 pm 
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Shoes: Solutions and Cumbres
Which guide book do you have Jay? If it's the rockfax one remember that that is a selective guide, If you look in the climbers club guide there are a lot more crags, and plenty at a suitable grade near to where we stay, they aren't as big so we'll have to spred ourselves out more, but theres still plenty to go at! Even without too much of a drive! Still it's not ideal!

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PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2010 8:22 pm 

Joined: Thu Oct 02, 2008 11:17 am
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Now why didn't I think of the CC guides!

Yeah the crag routelist described is straight out of the new Rockfax. I was attracted in by the pretty pictures.

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PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2010 10:10 pm 
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It is a nice guidebook! There's plenty in the CC guide to excite you too but sadly not nearly as many pictures :(

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PostPosted: Wed May 05, 2010 1:37 pm 

Joined: Thu Oct 18, 2007 6:36 pm
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Location: Selly Oak
Shoes: Boreal Stingma
The Pembroke restrictions on UKC -

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=53264

Nice wee summary:

Quote:
The bad news is that a large scale pre-Afghanistan, brigade level training exercise is due to take place across Castlemartin Range throughout June.

This will severely restrict access from Tuesday 1 June to Friday 2 July. During this period there will be no access from 08:30 on Monday morning to 17:00 on Friday to Range West and the whole of Range East. Access will be possible on Friday evening and at weekends. The whole of Range East includes the section from Broadhaven car park around to Chapel Head which means no climbing on St. Govan's or Trevallen. With the seasonal bird restrictions in place up to 1 August, this leave few places to shag during midweek in June except for Lydstep and the North Coast cliffs.


I'm not a Pembroke expert, and haven't had a close look to see exactly what is excluded from the CC book, but this looks really quite extensive. All that is left in South Pembroke, notwithstanding the smaller CC crags, is Lydstep and Mother Careys. The first is tidal the second is brick hard. JCB, you may be able to figure a way round it with St. Davids trip thrown into the mix, but I reckon its certainly worth a much closer look before everyone arrives and finds that there is nothing to do until the weekend.

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PostPosted: Wed May 05, 2010 2:11 pm 

Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 11:05 pm
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Gareth C. wrote:
The Pembroke restrictions on UKC -

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=53264

Nice wee summary:

Quote:
The bad news is that a large scale pre-Afghanistan, brigade level training exercise is due to take place across Castlemartin Range throughout June.

This will severely restrict access from Tuesday 1 June to Friday 2 July. During this period there will be no access from 08:30 on Monday morning to 17:00 on Friday to Range West and the whole of Range East. Access will be possible on Friday evening and at weekends. The whole of Range East includes the section from Broadhaven car park around to Chapel Head which means no climbing on St. Govan's or Trevallen. With the seasonal bird restrictions in place up to 1 August, this leave few places to shag during midweek in June except for Lydstep and the North Coast cliffs.


I'm not a Pembroke expert, and haven't had a close look to see exactly what is excluded from the CC book, but this looks really quite extensive. All that is left in South Pembroke, notwithstanding the smaller CC crags, is Lydstep and Mother Careys. The first is tidal the second is brick hard. JCB, you may be able to figure a way round it with St. Davids trip thrown into the mix, but I reckon its certainly worth a much closer look before everyone arrives and finds that there is nothing to do until the weekend.


your about a week late Gareth, already posted this above.

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PostPosted: Wed May 05, 2010 3:22 pm 

Joined: Thu Oct 18, 2007 6:36 pm
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FOOL OF A TOOK!

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PostPosted: Wed May 05, 2010 7:01 pm 
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tbf, it it difficult to know which bits of the coast were within the ranges without looking at a guide. At least that summary is a bit more climbing specific than the other. A plan needs to be made, there is potential for a lot of people not knowing where they are going to shag during the week.

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PostPosted: Wed May 05, 2010 8:23 pm 
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I'm looking into the St Davids area for a campsite near there, tis just a bit further north with climbs along the northern coastline up to and around the Fishguard area. That way, we'll be closer to those sea cliffs to cut down any excessive driving which we'd have to do down in Pembroke. [But the campsites might be a tad more pricey :/ ]

I hope people are happy with this option, judging by the very quick look through the guidebook today at the BBQ, there should be enough in that area to keep people happy, even if we have to split up into smaller groups. - Am also looking into the bird-bans as well however there doesn't seem to be as much in north pembrokeshire.

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PostPosted: Wed May 05, 2010 8:52 pm 
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Between lydstep and Tenby are well over a hundred routes up to vs and the same again over, as far as i can tell there are no restrictions on these! Look at the lydstep bay to tenby section of the climbers club guide! there's absolutely loads suitable for the club there, and it's close to the current campsite!

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PostPosted: Wed May 05, 2010 9:11 pm 
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Taken a look, [Via UKC] - looks promising. looks like Lydstep Headland has a bird ban, but aside from that the rest is 'clear'. - Still can't find a campsite in St Davids matching £2 pp-pn in price though. All £6+ :?

I'd be happy to keep the campsite where we are, and save the faf, the only thing to consider is: Tenby-Lydstep is one small area of the coastline - how packed is it going to be with every other climber going there now 80% of the coast is inaccessible? - I guess we would have to get up early to beat the rush of people.

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PostPosted: Wed May 05, 2010 9:22 pm 
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Not everyone has to go to the same places if in different cars, some people may still want to drive to St Davids etc

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PostPosted: Wed May 05, 2010 11:15 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 8:07 pm
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£2 per person per night is a good deal, and most cars that head to St. Davids can be filled with 5 people meaning fewer cars and so less can be spent on petrol altogether. I'm guessing the deal we get for camping at that site is why we've stuck to that campsite in the past, but maybe give Tommy/Krystina a call, they've run the trip in the past and they might know more about it (calling Alek any time soon would be quite expensive). But staying at that campsite and not climbing on the ranges on the weekdays has worked in the past...

Where we climbed 2 and 3 years ago around St. Davids on the weekdays because the ranges were closed off, there weren't many other climbers there so we pretty much had the place to ourselves every day.


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PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2010 12:53 pm 

Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 11:05 pm
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I think it needs pointing out that in order to importance Drivers come before the wallets of non-drivers.

The possibility of charging a little bit more per person should not take priority over expecting drivers to do over 2 hours driving in a day to go to a crag. Not only is it not fair on the driver, but it will increase unnecessarily general wear and tear on their car which is not, and never has been, reflected in the driver discount.

This is not a post indicating where we should go, but one made directly at those who are concerned with trip costs and not the kind people who this club rely on to do the driving.

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PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2010 5:42 pm 

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im not a driver but surely if you are a driver you would want to save money on the campsite as well,as you can claim the petrol money back? If you move to a more expensive campsite the drivers still have to pay for it. I know this dosnt take into consideration the time it takes to drive to places but if you offer to drive then driving places kind of comes under the job description. i really dont care what happens id just quite like to shag,id be well up for finding a random field/beach/wood and camping there for free!


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PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2010 5:58 pm 
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Slab Master! Check out Barrel Zawn DWS!

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