Hey,

Anybody know any BMG/ IFMGA guides? - I'm looking into it as a 'back up' carreer at the moment.

I'm well aware I don't have the qualifications for it, but I wanted to know just how far-fetched an option it is. It takes about 5years+ to become one, and if it's feasable, I'd like to become one before I'm old and crippled in my 30's! Lol.

Any contacts people have, let me know! Ta!

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"I'm not mad, I just see things differently"
No longer VP : But still Vaguely Philippino
FYI: Actions speak louder than wombats

Don't really have any contacts but have chatted to a few people about this, it takes about 5+ years to qualify, but that's after you get on the scheme, and you have to do loads of (fun) stuff to get on it. you don't have to have any qualifications as such but you need loads and loads of experience.

For example here are some of the (minimun) requirements:
At least 4 years alpine experience, 20 major routes including 5 routes equivalent to the north face of the eiger. (you also have to list your partner to show you were "in charge")
5 years winter climbing experience and with 50 routes of III and above and 20 routes of V and above
Be able to shag any E1 in more or less any condition (wet)
be a pretty awesome skier, and have done 30 days of ski mountaineering on glaciated terrain

I think the part most British people find the hardest is getting good enough at skiing, because you have to do so much and it's expensive.

Apparently most guides qualify in there late 30's and 40's, because it takes so long to get the experience required, and it's hard to fund years of doing nothing but climbing.

I was talking to someone the other day and they said there were very few British guides who were just guides, most of them have other jobs.

It's not too far-fetched, but, you have to ask yourself the question, do i want to do something that justifies doing nothing but shag and have fun for the next decade, just to get on the training scheme?

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Girls like three things: Danger, Boners and R1oss' guns.

I know a few. Lots of hard work to gain the experience required just to enter the scheme. Most people do work through the MLT awards MIA and MIC as well, or at the same time, but mainly before starting the guide scheme as a way of bringing in the money. Holding MIA and or MIC does reduce some of the Guide Scheme training requirements.

One of the requirements thats missing off the previous list is that you need to 50 E1 5bs that need to be all multi pitch on major sea cliffs and mountain crags. Think Gogarth and Cloggy, not Tremadog! Also you use to need to show logbook experience of leading at least E3 5c, but i believe that this may have gone up to 6a now.

Most peoples applications, get knocked back, due to their winter routes and there long alpine routes. The North Face of the Eiger doesn't count, according to a few of my friends as there is no glacial approach, but all of them have done it, so make of that what you want!

James Thacker is currently working through the scheme, so it maybe worth chatting to him. Mal Creasey and Steve Long at MLT are guides so it would be worth chatting to them. And I know another few people that are almost ready to put an application in!

I think each year the BMG organise a come and see us type event for those people that are thinking about becoming a guide. So it would be worth finding out if there is one this year, that way you can get the information from the horse's mouth so to speak, and not third (or more!) hand.

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Mountaineering Instructor and Asp. Level 5 Kayak Coach
Supported by : Team Pyranha | Peak UK

Mostly only second hand actually.

Martin Chester (Guide, head instructor at pyb and all round nice guy) did a Q&A session on ukc a couple of years ago which might be worth a look:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=360092

There's also a guide that hangs out in redpoint sometimes (you can tell he's one because of his badge) I've never spoken to him but i think Rose knows him...

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Girls like three things: Danger, Boners and R1oss' guns.

That will be Rob Wills at a guess.

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Mountaineering Instructor and Asp. Level 5 Kayak Coach
Supported by : Team Pyranha | Peak UK

Thanks for the info I've had a look at the requirments, and am well aware that it's pretty nails to get onto the training scheme. But the fact that I know it's "feasable" is the main thing. It just means that should the sh*t hit the fan career-wise, I can still work towards something.

The one thing I don't want to do after July 15th when I graduate is just sit around doing nothing and go on the dole. I'd go crazy thinking I'm just waisting my life!

& Like you say, most people have another career to finance it all, which is a plan of mine. However I only know of Atkins who gives you 25 day's holiday + the option to buy an extra 15 days leave each year = 40 days... 8 weeks That's enough for an 'alright' winter and summer session each year.

- The only problem is that it's tough competition into Atkins. & everywhere else isn't hiring or has poor holiday allowances. Ergo.. train up to meet the BMG standards.

_________________
"I'm not mad, I just see things differently"
No longer VP : But still Vaguely Philippino
FYI: Actions speak louder than wombats

I reckon trying to fufil the requirements is a pretty cool aim just to have, Definately a good way of making sure you don't sit around wasting your life after graduation!

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Girls like three things: Danger, Boners and R1oss' guns.

Damn strait! I'd class anybody who's met the requirements a pretty competent all round mountaineer.

They should get the UBMC Approved "Mountain Man" Award. (just thought up in the past 30 seconds) lol

_________________
"I'm not mad, I just see things differently"
No longer VP : But still Vaguely Philippino
FYI: Actions speak louder than wombats