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 Post subject: Re: Aims for 2009
PostPosted: Thu Jul 16, 2009 5:00 pm 

Joined: Thu Oct 02, 2008 11:17 am
Posts: 675
Shoes: Team 40
Michaf C G wrote:
Why does everyone want to do 1 armed pull ups?!

I will be quite happy going my whole life without ever being able to do it, and still be able to shag at a fairly good standard.

Top tip for getting better at climbing: Go climbing! You could be amazing at 1 armers but if you cant do a rock over you will be screwed at flying buttress Alex!





Exactly.... I'm pretty sure Steve McClure can't do a one armer but he climbs harder then anyone could ever dream of. One armers are overrated. Yeah it can help, but you over compensate on climbs and problems with your strength and end up (excuse my bad language) it up because your not using the right technique. Climbing lots is definitely the best/quickest way to get better at climbing.

----> New Aim, Be better at trad than Michaf C for the rest of eternity.

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 Post subject: Re: Aims for 2009
PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2009 11:58 pm 

Joined: Thu Oct 18, 2007 6:36 pm
Posts: 1023
Location: Selly Oak
Shoes: Boreal Stingma
Lies.

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Developing Nicely.


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 Post subject: Re: Aims for 2009
PostPosted: Sat Jul 18, 2009 1:29 pm 

Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2009 6:36 pm
Posts: 32
Shoes: I don't use feet
I don't know about jay kay but i do one arms because they make me look cool. Seriously. Anyway proof it is sometimes - only sometimes - useful. Angela eiter wins the 2005 lead wc, including some one arm power. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_YrlpiMgyA

fast foward to 7.20 if you want.

Goals met!
V1 in font - can't remember route name
3c in rodellar - la cena del isodoro extension

I'm much much happier about the second than the first.


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 Post subject: Re: Aims for 2009
PostPosted: Sun Jul 19, 2009 6:22 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 14, 2007 11:21 pm
Posts: 724
Location: Off World Colonies...
Shoes: Scarpa Stix & Vapors
jay_kay wrote:
The E1 goal is definitely doable. I thought you'd done E1 anyway?

Well, according to UKC i've done two E1's but in guide books they're HVS, so I'm not counting them. Sport climbing in France has possibly helped me a bit, I just need to maintain my fitness whilst sitting in an office for 9 weeks in Coventry [Summer placement :( ] so that I don't loose anything i've gained when I get back into trad.

Wolf mountain should help though with it's nails hard boulder problems, and I don't do straight arm dead hangs, straight armers do wreck your joints like Dave Macleod said. Hanging around does help for stamina though, (well... sort of helps).

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 Post subject: Re: Aims for 2009
PostPosted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 4:09 am 

Joined: Fri Feb 22, 2008 9:09 pm
Posts: 460
Shoes: Barefoot
lee wrote:
I don't know about jay kay but i do one arms because they make me look cool. Seriously.


Best thing on the forum ever.

I can now do five btw


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 Post subject: Re: Aims for 2009
PostPosted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 2:05 pm 

Joined: Thu Oct 18, 2007 6:36 pm
Posts: 1023
Location: Selly Oak
Shoes: Boreal Stingma
Awh man, Lee you're my hero. But yer not hard till you can one armer off baggy finger jams.

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 Post subject: Re: Aims for 2009
PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 12:30 pm 

Joined: Fri May 09, 2008 3:02 pm
Posts: 56
Location: Narnia
Shoes: la sportiva katana
screw one armers i'm going for one finger http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CAkqIG2Zbn4


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 Post subject: Re: Aims for 2009
PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 3:36 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2007 5:20 pm
Posts: 304
Shoes: Solutions and Cumbres
Strength isn't everything, but Sometimes you do just need to be strong. I once saw a picture of someone hanging just off their little finger, I was like there's no way you ever need your little finger to be that strong, then i found a pocket on a problem that i could only get my little finger in, and no other feasable holds, that was on a V1!

Technique is no substitute for strength, but strength without technique is nothing!

But at the end of the day One-armers are just really damn cool, Fact.

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 Post subject: Re: Aims for 2009
PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 11:58 pm 

Joined: Tue Oct 16, 2007 7:23 pm
Posts: 61
Shoes: 5.10 Anasazi Verde
Quote:
then i found a pocket on a problem that i could only get my little finger in, and no other feasable holds, that was on a V1!


lol that problem at nesscliffe? dam tiny pockets do not go well wiv my fat stubby crimpin fingers


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 Post subject: Re: Aims for 2009
PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 1:56 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2007 5:20 pm
Posts: 304
Shoes: Solutions and Cumbres
Yep! Good old Nesscliffe, it's one of those "if i fall off now i'm pretty sure my finger's gonna be ripped off problems..."

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 Post subject: Re: Aims for 2009
PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 12:52 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 1:35 pm
Posts: 388
Shoes: Special sandals
Haha! I remember my last jaunt to nesscliffe, I nearly left my digits in a few of those problems!! Think I was with you Tom? There was a offbalanced, one fingered, undercut move...with sharp bits!!

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 Post subject: Re: Aims for 2009
PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 4:48 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 04, 2009 2:34 am
Posts: 2
shag a big wall.


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 Post subject: Re: Aims for 2009
PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 5:41 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 8:07 pm
Posts: 1115
Shoes: katanas
shag a really really big wall, one that even seems big to me!


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 Post subject: Re: Aims for 2009
PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 11:53 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 6:17 pm
Posts: 243
i don't think big walls come in brummy size, laurence.


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 Post subject: Re: Aims for 2009
PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 5:30 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2007 4:56 pm
Posts: 323
Aim Number 1: Be the best in the club. :rambo:

Aim number 2: Keep my massive ego under control! :thumright:


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