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 Post subject: A Climbing Topic
PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 8:20 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 12:10 pm
Posts: 163
(again, spot the boredom)

We havent had a climbing topic on here for a while. So to keep me entertained, lets do:

You Favourite Route and Why. Get involved

Mine:

Army Dreamers (HVS 5a) at St. Govans

Excellent shag on a nice warm Pembroke day, some varied climbing including an airy traverse and a great sense of satisfaction at the top. Also, found it quite hard and scary which I had been told would not happen.

Runners Up: Lavaredo (VS 4b) Carreg Alltrem, Blue Sky (VS 4b) Pembroke


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 8:35 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 2:44 pm
Posts: 573
Shoes: Mutants
Sea Rider (VS 4c) at Porth-Clais

Lead it in a torrid rainfall, sheets of water running down the slab, became very technical in the absence of smearing.
Shaggy's contribution was to insist on me starting underwater and using all my small nuts so i could only place micros.

Runner's Up:

Dreamboat Annie (E1 5a) - only loser's who can't shag call it an HVS
Valkyrie at the Roaches (VS 4c) because it was the 1st VS I enjoyed.

Alek - Equally bored.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 8:58 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 7:03 pm
Posts: 271
Evening Sky (S), Raven Crag, Langdale

A lovely shag, with lots of technical (ish) slab type work, but not too scary, a great view, and climbed with Roger MAM legend.

Runners up:
At Saddlehead (Pembroke), 1st pitch of Blue Sky (HS really) due to the unbeatable atmosphere, and a personal triumph.

And Sea Mist (HS) for knarly looking photos and scary but satisfying traverse.

Note my originality in choice.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 9:11 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 2:44 pm
Posts: 573
Shoes: Mutants
by 'evening sky', do you mean 'evening wall'? Or am i off the mark completely?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 9:12 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 7:03 pm
Posts: 271
Ah I do! Oh, I was enjoying the theme!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 9:44 pm 

Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2007 6:28 pm
Posts: 473
Shoes: Flip Flops
Flannel Avenue - Chair ladder (Cornwall) HS 4b
2nd pitch starts at 30m and is on flawless vertical granite with big holds, bomber protection and awesome views of the atlantic.

Runners up
Demo route HS 4b- Sennen
Tiger's Wall VS 5a- Bowden doors
The Pelican E1 5b - Drake Stone


Last edited by Mark D on Thu Nov 15, 2007 12:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 9:50 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 11:45 pm
Posts: 30
shadow wall at Carreg Wastad. three big mantle moves getting progressively smaller, great shag and my first vs.

runner up Portfolio at ehwindgatherhum my first hvs one big pull and your there. glad maddie was seconding as i wouldn't have been able to pull anyone else up it


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 9:59 pm 

Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2007 12:17 am
Posts: 379
Shoes: Red chilli Sauslitos/5:10 anasazi
Another vote for...

Blue Sky-Great Atmosphere, good but untaxing climbing, good exposure and gear and done on a perfect sunny day with a calm sea.

Hexenstein South Rib-Dolomites (IV+)

Probably the best shag we did in the dolomites due to it actually having a hard pitch-we generally stuck to really easy ones since Rob and I are probably the world's slowest climbers. Unbeatable exposure-amazing positive holds and long runouts made this a classic.

Other favourites-Golden Yardstick (VS 5a) - Wildcat Crags (for the second pitch). Black and Tans (S) - The Roaches, Grooved Arete (VD)-Tryfan East Face -Tower of Laughter-E1 6a (but not really E1 cos of 2 bolts at the crux) Dali's Hole

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 10:38 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 8:23 pm
Posts: 405
Either Sunset Slab at Froggat, fantastic climbing and amazing orange rock at sunset
Or Long Tall Sally at Burbage North, just for the craziness of doing it spontaneously in the half dark and the massive buzz afterwards


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 11:34 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 12:10 pm
Posts: 163
This is excellent. No more than 3 climbs per person from now on. If we encourage people to tell us their favs we can make a UBMC All-Star Routes list, so try to name climbs at different grades.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 11:53 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 9:40 pm
Posts: 157
Dude, get a life!

Ok, Nameless Wall at Saddle head. First HS and a good 'un.

Dreamboat Annie (see Alek), due to epic achievment factor felt.

And the Mincer, at the Roaches. The shag on which I swore the most.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 12:57 am 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 8:23 pm
Posts: 405
Andy B wrote:
Dude, get a life!


Seconded!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 11:24 am 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 12:10 pm
Posts: 163
Both of you are quick to criticise, but yet think its a good idea and have contributed. Therefore, I'm justified.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 12:27 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 7:52 pm
Posts: 204
My favourite shag to watch was Tom doing dreamboat annie, complete with the loss of half his rack into the sea and sending bide diving for it afterwards.

My second favourite shag to watch will have to go to Alice this weekend doing Caveman at Fairy Cave Quarry, and repeatedly climbing up then slidding down the slab in fits of giggles.

Wait, I'm playing the wrong game.

To be different to everyone else, my least favourite shag and I'd go as far to say worse ever climbing experiance was actually blue sky, or possibly some variation, it involved a big traverse which the gear had been taken out of and a big swing into a wall if you slipped, I had major panic attackness, used gear to secure me to the rock and sat there hyperventilating and crying for what felt like hours, I was quite prepared that eventually the sun would go down and I'd be left there overnight and wished I'd worn more clothes. A stranger abseiled down and more or less carried me (screaming and panicing) across the traverse and then, still screaming, I was pretty much hoisted up the rest of the route, for my screams to be described as 'not so much 'I'm scared' screams as 'oh my god I'm going to die' screams'. Unsuprisingly the people I was with have never climed with me again. And that's why I don't second routes with traverses in them.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 12:29 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 9:40 pm
Posts: 157
Marine Tom wrote:
Both of you are quick to criticise, but yet think its a good idea and have contributed. Therefore, I'm justified.


It was through pity.


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