I keep reading about this type of belaying / skill , most recently in the article posted earlier in this forum: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1838

Should we learn how to do this ?? Just reading how to do it doesn't really help too much...are there people in the club who know how to do it??

If we should know this could they mebbe teach me and others....

Any input appreciated !!

stvey B

Cheers

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Miss Jeanes

I wouldn't worry about it too much Steve. Its of limited use indoors given that people generally want to stay as high as possible after they fall off. Most folks would be pretty pissed off if every they fell on the lead they ended up 3 or 4 clips below where they could have. You've also got the added danger of hitting someone or something as you fall.

Dynamic belaying comes into its own outdoors but again only in limited circumstances. The rock has to be vertical or past and can't have anything to hit on the way down - that rules out pretty much every shag at Stanage. Similarly, there are certain trad routes where the last thing you want is a dynamic belay. Youtube Masters Edge for example.

If you want to practice it anyway pick a steep shag indoors and belay further away from the wall than you should. When your leader pumps out above a clip jump forwards in the air. Big fella like you will find it harder cus yer a heavy git.

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Developing Nicely.

your best bet is to practise it with a few people at the wall in a controlled situation. but as Gareth said, its not needed that much and you need to be careful when to do it.

what you actually do is very simple. even just taking a few steps forward as you lock off the belay plate helps because more rope takes the fall and minimises the force experienced by the climber (and outdoors this will reduce the shock loading on the gear which may prevent it from popping out). the important thing is that you dont pay out slack or walk forward before (but at the exact moment) the climber's weight is on the rope. otherwise the fall distance is increased.

more attention and anticipation is needed on the belayer’s part so you need to be confident at lead belaying first.

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VP '08-'09

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1844 explains more

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VP '08-'09

cheers tommy n gareth

and i havn't been climbing because i hurt my foot about 3 weeks ago and i think its only just really getting better. shouldn't be too long before im climbing hopefully but prob be another two weeks as i have my exams start tmoz and finish in two weeks time

Yeh I think it's mainly useful for steeper ground on bolts where a shortish fall may make you smash into the rock with quite a large force.

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MILF-Hunter

Or on GBH at the Head where you wanna take as big a (excuse my bad language) whipper as possible after peeling off the last moves cus you'll look nails hard in yer next DVD. Man I cant wait for July...

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Developing Nicely.