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 Post subject: Re: Creation's new wall
PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 11:50 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 10:29 pm
Posts: 707
Shoes: purple ones and yellow ones
alek wrote:
my one is the one after the barrel with only a few holds


Annoyingly sporadic jugs... hmm. i know the one. Also I defy anyone under 5ft6 to manage the massive bridge on the damn grey one beside that yellow!! Exciting experimental new routes :lol: Sorry. This is a thread on creation, but somehow redpoint still manages steal the show.... :thumleft:

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 Post subject: Re: Creation's new wall
PostPosted: Wed Mar 24, 2010 8:04 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 6:17 pm
Posts: 243
hmm..

Just experienced the new room today, and its ok i suppose.

It nice and big, and there are some nice problems about actually, if you take the time to look, and I do appreciate the return of the circuit/dyno board.

Everything does seem to be on the same little squarish shaped holds though, and its just bizzarre the way they have chosen to make all the panels smooth and not rough. Fair enough having some smooth sections, but areas like the slab could have been so much better with a grit-like finish.

For all the space, its a bit limited really.


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 Post subject: Re: Creation's new wall
PostPosted: Thu Mar 25, 2010 1:15 am 

Joined: Thu Oct 30, 2008 1:11 am
Posts: 207
Shoes: katanas
totally agree with Neil! & we also thought were wasn't much of a huuuge range in the feel of the grades?
But yeah, the smooth-finished walls reeeeally got to me! NO smearing?! what the hell is that about?
Hopefully they'll make improvements on it now that its opened.. and diversify it a bit over the upcoming months.
I feel a bit bad about all the moaning it's getting - at least there's pleeenty of routes to try :)!

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 Post subject: Re: Creation's new wall
PostPosted: Thu Mar 25, 2010 5:48 am 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 8:07 pm
Posts: 1115
Shoes: katanas
if the new bouldering room forced TG to put a harness on then there must be a problem with it


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 Post subject: Re: Creation's new wall
PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 2:06 pm 

Joined: Thu Oct 02, 2008 11:17 am
Posts: 675
Shoes: Team 40
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=401111

Makes for interesting reading.



Oh, just to point out. Nat walked round with Paddy and Ben B the other day and changed all the stupidly hard/annoying sit-starts to either standing or more accurate sitters. So the routes should have improved.

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 Post subject: Re: Creation's new wall
PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 4:50 pm 

Joined: Mon May 19, 2008 7:06 pm
Posts: 114
Shoes: La Sportiva Muiras
hmm i wonder who the arrogant and rude member of staff that shouts at people to get out at the end of the night that there all talking about is?


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 Post subject: Re: Creation's new wall
PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 5:49 pm 

Joined: Thu Sep 24, 2009 7:40 pm
Posts: 27
One guy nearly wouldn't let me in at the student rate last time I was there, I'm one of probably few people who have never lost their student ID card so have one of the old ones with no dates on them. Nobody else has ever noticed or cared except this guy. Once he had spent about 2 minutes typing a note on my account to not let me in next time I remembered I had my UBMC/Guild membership card which has this year's date on it - he was annoyed. Ha.

Redpoint FTW - staff, atmosphere, temperature, routes. Oh, and malteaser cake!


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 Post subject: Re: Creation's new wall
PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 12:00 am 

Joined: Tue Dec 29, 2009 6:14 pm
Posts: 54
Shoes: Flip-flops
Just in case there are any genuinely frustrated people that might like to see improvements in the new wall (as opposed to people that want to point out how much better they think redpoint is):

The staff at Creation aren't without their faults but they're also not stupid. They want the new wall to be a success and aren't intent on blindly ignoring people's problems with it. If you have a problem with the new walls TELL THE STAFF ABOUT IT. Yes, even UBMC's favourite climbing wall employee Nat. Having talked to him this week he seems to genuinely be trying to get the routes at the centre up to a good standard, but as he had to set most of them in a very short space of time before the new wall opened there is a lot of work to do. Therefore, a lot of the routes are being tweaked so if you are having problems with a route or circuit (usually awkward sit starts from my experience), mention it and there's a good chance the staff will be willing to take your comments on board.

As Jay Kay mentioned, me and Ben helped Nat adjust some of the routes and whilst there's still probably a lot of awkward bits left in them the ones we pointed out were changed, so if you think there's a serious problem with the routes, again; TELL THE STAFF. We also got talking to him about how the moon room was being altered, and not only was he interested in what we had to say, he also said we were welcome to help shape how it was set up. So, if any of you want to keep going to creation but want to see improvements then please actually tell someone about it, as otherwise the centre has no reason to think it needs to change anything. On the other hand if you want to stick to redpoint then fair enough. I hear they have good flapjacks.









(though if you ask me they're still lacking a moon wall :P )


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 Post subject: Re: Creation's new wall
PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 4:43 am 

Joined: Thu Oct 02, 2008 11:17 am
Posts: 675
Shoes: Team 40
To be fair paddy, you know redpoint is better.... there's no point going to creation, don't get bullied into it by your housemates. x

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 Post subject: Re: Creation's new wall
PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 8:38 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 10:29 pm
Posts: 707
Shoes: purple ones and yellow ones
Jay I couldn't see your link, it said 'no such forum' lol, do it again?

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 Post subject: Re: Creation's new wall
PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 9:26 am 

Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 11:05 pm
Posts: 1190
It got a bit heated on that thread last night and i think the moderators removed it. Poor Michaf C at Creation was getting backed into a corner and abused by all the standard UKC folk.

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 Post subject: Re: Creation's new wall
PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 1:36 pm 

Joined: Tue Dec 29, 2009 6:14 pm
Posts: 54
Shoes: Flip-flops
jay_kay wrote:
To be fair paddy, you know redpoint is better.... there's no point going to creation, don't get bullied into it by your housemates. x


Never! I'm never leaving the moon room goddammit! :P


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 Post subject: Re: Creation's new wall
PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 11:34 pm 

Joined: Mon May 19, 2008 7:06 pm
Posts: 114
Shoes: La Sportiva Muiras
Redpoint do have a moon board!


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 Post subject: Re: Creation's new wall
PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 11:51 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 23, 2009 3:25 pm
Posts: 266
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Who cares about the moon board. Ok so it's a good way to measure improvement, but really, the same 2 square meters of plywood with the same holds every week...

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 Post subject: Re: Creation's new wall
PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 12:35 am 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 8:07 pm
Posts: 1115
Shoes: katanas
it is very hard for me not to grumble on this thread...


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