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 Post subject: Grade debate
PostPosted: Sat Apr 04, 2009 4:47 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 2:44 pm
Posts: 573
Shoes: Mutants
Thought this was quite interesting...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=46395

This clip covers the difference of opinion over James Pearson's E12.

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 Post subject: Re: Grade debate
PostPosted: Sat Apr 04, 2009 5:54 pm 

Joined: Thu Oct 02, 2008 11:17 am
Posts: 675
Shoes: Team 40
Yeah, i watched that yesterday. He was asked (J.P) what would you grade it now, and he answers not E12..... However they also said it was harder than E9. There are lots of comments underneath discussing the reasoning of Dave and James' reason for choosing these grades.....

I've also recently read a magazine which put forward an argument for tweaking the english grading system (i think it was Neil Gresham) Pretty much keeping it the way it is but incorporating the gear into the grade. This would be done by grading climbs like i ii iii iv v for how good the gear is. (i) being no risk of injury/death to (v) being death fall potential. You still get the english tech grade, and an E number. the E number would depend (like normal) on whether the hard part of the shag is where the gear is poorest.

Example E1 5c iii

Thought this was quite interesting.

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 Post subject: Re: Grade debate
PostPosted: Sat Apr 04, 2009 6:19 pm 

Joined: Mon May 19, 2008 7:06 pm
Posts: 114
Shoes: La Sportiva Muiras
they already do that jay kay in the yorkshire gritstione guidebook,using p1 to p3,i really like that it,its very uselful.


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 Post subject: Re: Grade debate
PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2009 5:11 pm 

Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2007 5:06 pm
Posts: 207
Shoes: la sportiva mythos
Saw some guys recently who were just pulling up their top rope from the walk of life. One guy said, "It's not as hard as you expect" in a not too fussed kind of way. Considering he was on top rope, didn't finish it, and had no plans to return, I guess it still was reasonably hard... Sadly, I didn't have my climbing things with me, so didn't do any more than go a foot or two up; clearly if I had had my things with me I would have been able to do it and grade it myself...

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 Post subject: Re: Grade debate
PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2009 7:15 pm 

Joined: Thu Oct 18, 2007 6:36 pm
Posts: 1023
Location: Selly Oak
Shoes: Boreal Stingma
E grade system is awesome. Works perfectly in my opinion. If you cant tell how bold or safe a shag is going to be before you get on it then you're a spacker anyway. I appriciate that at top level it might be a bit contrived, but for everything sub E7/8 its spot on!

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 Post subject: Re: Grade debate
PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2009 12:38 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2008 2:43 pm
Posts: 759
Shoes: flip flops
Unless your climbing at almscliff in yorkshire then grades are not spot on!

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