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 Post subject: Advice on rock boots?
PostPosted: Sat Oct 06, 2007 3:10 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 3:00 pm
Posts: 95
Location: my office
It's come to my attention that I need new rock boots.

I don't know anything about rock boots.

Anyone have any advice?

Anyone with a car going to Cotswolds any time soon?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 06, 2007 3:14 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 7:52 pm
Posts: 204
There is a Cotswlds in town now, on new street, so car and travelling no longer needed


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 06, 2007 3:19 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 3:00 pm
Posts: 95
Location: my office
bloody hell, I am an idiot.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 06, 2007 4:00 pm 

Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2007 10:35 pm
Posts: 607
You can also buy rock boots at Creation, and they do know what they are talking about.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 06, 2007 4:06 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 7:52 pm
Posts: 204
Lol, it's ok, you didn't know, it's a nice shop though.

Surely you've done enough climbing to know what you like in boots by now?

None the less, here's some stuff to consider, mainly the stuff I look at when I'm buying a boot (you are allowed to ignore questions if you have no preference)

Lace up or velcro (or slip on I guess) - personally prefer velcro cos it's easier to get on and off, but others find they get a better fit in lace up boots.

Brand/rubber - most different brands have their own rubber, and sometimes people have a preference of rubber. I prefer 5.10, as it's the best performance I've had from shoes I've owned (which is also red chilli and evolve)

Colour - obviously very important

Edge - Do you prefer boots with an edge at the toe or a rounded toe? Entry level boots tend to have more of a rounded toe, and higher performance boots have more of an edge. I like an edge, it makes edging easier.

Lining - whether a boot is canvas lined or not will affect whether it stretches, an unlined boot will stretch with wear, some people prefer getting one thats slightly too small but stretches to a better fit, a lined boot won't stretch (or if it does it'll be minimal)

Heel - I'm told there's lots of stuff to do with heels too, but I don't know much about it. Ask someone who likes to heel hook a lot.

FIT - this is the important one, it has to fit! Try on a few boots, see what you like, how tight you like it to fit is up to you, although I'd recomend not getting something that cripples your feet, take into account if it'll stretch or not. How wide are your feet? Womens shoes are also usually narrower than mens, and I've often found people with narrower feet tend to prefer lace ups for a better fit, width and fit differ by brand, my evolvs are very narrow, whereas boreal have a reputation for making wider boots (spiders in particular are often recomended if you have wide feet)

Price - The usual sacrifice of price vs performance.

Pete Edwards now works in Snow and Rock and gave me a good deal on my boots (where marked at £70, I asked for them for £35, I got them for £40), so there's worth a look too, they'll also price match anything, so if you can find something you like in some internet shops clearence, print it out and bring it in and they'll do it at that price.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 06, 2007 6:08 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 6:22 pm
Posts: 565
Shoes: saltic vampires
if you wait a few weeks till we go to ogwen then a trip to cotsworlds rockbottom may be useful...its cheaper...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 06, 2007 11:06 pm 

Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2007 5:39 pm
Posts: 34
Andy C wrote:
bloody hell, I am an idiot.


Your american - its expected


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2007 12:47 pm 

Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2007 4:59 pm
Posts: 955
Location: Nuneaton
Shoes: Scarpa Vapour
good advice jaq, thanks! i'm also looking to buy new boots


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2007 6:20 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 6:17 pm
Posts: 243
most important thing is the fit.

Don't worry about the brand/features/style if it compromises how well the shoe fits your foot.

You'll want a shoe that fits a snug and close as possible without so uncomfortable its going to limit how you use and move your foot. And don't bother squeezing your foot into stupidly small and uncomfortable shoes either as the modern shoes don't stretch anywhere near as much as they used to.

Or just ignore all of that and buy whatever looks pretty.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2007 9:21 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 2:44 pm
Posts: 573
Shoes: Mutants
i love this thread.

Buy with your heart not your brain. You don't choose your rock shoes, they choose you!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:44 am 

Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2007 10:35 pm
Posts: 607
If you are planning on doing any multipitch, don't buy them so tight they are stupidly painful and you have to take them off at every belay.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 9:33 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 11:45 pm
Posts: 30
buy some really bastard tight anasazis, they make you better


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 11:54 am 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 2:44 pm
Posts: 573
Shoes: Mutants
sometimes it's better to buy several pairs

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 2:59 pm 

Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2007 1:19 pm
Posts: 5
flipflops for guys, high-heels for girls.
^_^

has anyone ever tried climbing in clogs??

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a rock-face is like a tin of beans. once opened, it should be eaten in 3-5 days.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 3:47 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 7:52 pm
Posts: 204
Oi, I think I'll stick to flip flops thank you very much, you sexist producer of baked beens.

Sorry, I didn't really mention much on fit on the basis that most people can probably tell if something fits or not, and that when faced with 20+ pairs in a shop you probably want to consider a few other things in order to narrow down the selection to a few to try on.


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