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 Post subject: Winter Gear Thread
PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 4:03 pm 

Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2007 12:17 am
Posts: 379
Shoes: Red chilli Sauslitos/5:10 anasazi
Thinking of getting some axes, anybody got any suggestions? Something suitable for scotland but that could be used on easier ice would be ideal.

Also crampons, which are the ones the club has, those are pretty good.

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 Post subject: Re: Winter Gear Thread
PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 4:24 pm 

Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2009 9:39 pm
Posts: 51
Shoes: five ten anasazi's
Simond Anaconda's are amazing, cotswolds had about 12 pairs in the country which i think most have been sold for £120 for the pair down from £300 (6 or 8 by my old club) If you head into cots and ask about them you might be lucky and pick up one of the final pair's


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 Post subject: Re: Winter Gear Thread
PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 5:43 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 14, 2007 11:21 pm
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Location: Off World Colonies...
Shoes: Scarpa Stix & Vapors
I'm not exactly an experienced ice axe user, but I do like my Petzle Quarks quite technical though, but I'm not fussed about it.

Probably recommend the DMM Fly's I've seen loads of people [in the Alps] use them and like them. A good intermediate ice axe I guess. Somebody with more knowledge can correct me. No idea on pricing though sorry! :/

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 Post subject: Re: Winter Gear Thread
PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 6:10 pm 

Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2007 12:17 am
Posts: 379
Shoes: Red chilli Sauslitos/5:10 anasazi
Yeh I was thinking of the fly's they look like a good all rounder, although I was thinking of the rebels as they're actually cheaper at the moment, dunno if they're too technical for scottish snow/mixed.

BTW Jandles was it you who was climbing with me and Andy on Sunday? Was nice to meet you and welcome to bham.

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 Post subject: Re: Winter Gear Thread
PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 6:29 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2007 5:20 pm
Posts: 304
Shoes: Solutions and Cumbres
I would say (without going mad) to go for a more technical axe over a more traditional one, although they're usually a bit more expensive, they'll be easier and more fun to shag with and won't hold you back on easier ground. If you go for a less technical pair you might find yourself wishing you hadn't in a year or even sooner, even if you don't intend to do anything hard now.

I have a pair of flys, which are great, but i'd definately go for something more like the rebel if i was getting a new pair, and that'd be mainly for use on mixed/scottish type ground.

Btw how cheap and where have you seen the rebels, I think Rosie's going to get a pair...

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 Post subject: Re: Winter Gear Thread
PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 6:36 pm 

Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2007 12:17 am
Posts: 379
Shoes: Red chilli Sauslitos/5:10 anasazi
They're £110 on amazon and £125 on outdoors magic I think. For a single axe obviously. Trouble is on amazon I couldn't see how to request one with an adze and one with a hammer.

I've seen a pair of petzl aztars for £200 on ebay, would they fit the bill as a technical but not too technical axe? I know nothing about this obviously.

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 Post subject: Re: Winter Gear Thread
PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 6:39 pm 

Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2009 9:39 pm
Posts: 51
Shoes: five ten anasazi's
yo MILF-Hunter, aye that was me was cool meeting you and andy, let me know if your climbing red point again as i'm just down the road or baring that let me know if your going for a pint in town lol 07733360204 Jandles


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 Post subject: Re: Winter Gear Thread
PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 6:45 pm 

Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2007 12:17 am
Posts: 379
Shoes: Red chilli Sauslitos/5:10 anasazi
Yeh no worries, gonna go redpoint Thursday eve probably if you want.

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 Post subject: Re: Winter Gear Thread
PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 6:48 pm 

Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2007 12:17 am
Posts: 379
Shoes: Red chilli Sauslitos/5:10 anasazi
http://www.tiso.com/shop/d-m-m/rebel_axe0/?_affid=99&_cid=1 There you go Tom . . .

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 Post subject: Re: Winter Gear Thread
PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 8:50 pm 

Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2009 9:39 pm
Posts: 51
Shoes: five ten anasazi's
yeah man thursday sounds good give me a bell when your goin down. I'll be back from work at about 6 chief


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 Post subject: Re: Winter Gear Thread
PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 10:37 pm 

Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2007 10:35 pm
Posts: 607
Grivel G12's are pretty standard in terms of decent mountaineering crampons. The G14's might be better suited for water ice though.
Either way, make sure you get the right binding for your boot(s) and use - and that they fit your boots.

Petzl Aztars - stu has used these in Scotland and got on fine.
DMM also do the superfly - bit more technical than the fly, but less than the rebel? Fly's and Superfly's both get well used in Scotland and the Alps. I have only seen Rebels in use by people doing fairly hardcore routes...and I have never used an axe with a trigger so can't comment.


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 Post subject: Re: Winter Gear Thread
PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 1:07 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2007 5:20 pm
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Shoes: Solutions and Cumbres
Cheers, thanks MILF-Hunter!

As Starley said It's important that crampons fit your boot well, which doesn't nessecerily mean Grivel ones...

I've never used superflys, but i waved them around a bit (worth doing before you buy) and they felt a bit weird to me, i think they're aimed more at water ice and less at Scotland so they're a bit more top heavy.

I'd probably go a bit more technical than Aztars, so you could potentialy use them leashless in the future. By too technical I ment Nomic or Fusion type things.

The real trick is to buy a pair of axes/crampons then never use anything else, and then you'll just assue what you have is the best!

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 Post subject: Re: Winter Gear Thread
PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 12:19 pm 

Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2007 12:17 am
Posts: 379
Shoes: Red chilli Sauslitos/5:10 anasazi
Thanks tom I'm seriously considering the rebels they seem to fit the bill, might go down cotswold and have a swing if they have any.

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 Post subject: Re: Winter Gear Thread
PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 4:57 pm 
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Im definately buying the Rebels MILF-Hunter! Dont for get you might want the option of leashes which are an additional cost of £50 for the pair. They look much better than the leashes that come with the Flys.


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 Post subject: Re: Winter Gear Thread
PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 9:49 pm 

Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2007 12:17 am
Posts: 379
Shoes: Red chilli Sauslitos/5:10 anasazi
Yeh I probably should get leashes although I climbed leashless last year I don't know if I would want to drop shiny new axes lol.

Out of interest rosie what grades and terrain you gonna be using the rebels on?

I was wondering is there any reason for a matched pair? Maybe getting a fly axe for plunging and a rebel hammer for mixed stuff would be a better idea? Then if I do harder stuff I would only maybe need one new axe?

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