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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 7:21 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2007 3:49 pm
Posts: 418
Location: Barcelona
Shoes: 5.10 T-Rock, Mammut Pro
.. I have been doing some gear research (again) and a question popped in my mind - how to use a hex as a cam? What are advantages/disadvantages? What is the recommended way to place it?


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 9:09 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 8:44 pm
Posts: 43
Shoes: A range of 5.10 shoes
Have a look at a tri cam and see how that works, then apply the same principle to hex. You can also do it with wires as well, for when you have nothing else to place in shot holes - I prefer to use my aliens for this mind!

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 11:35 pm 

Joined: Thu Oct 18, 2007 6:36 pm
Posts: 1023
Location: Selly Oak
Shoes: Boreal Stingma
Paul Smith wrote:
I prefer to use my aliens for this mind!

Paul has a small team of highly trained aliens who swoop down and rescue him in a flying saucer if he fluffs it. They are all SPA assessed...

Image

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 5:08 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 8:23 pm
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As paul says you use them like tri-cams, you have to make sure that its well enough wedged or weighted so that they dont just fall out. It's difficult to explain how to do it but you have the sling/rope coming out into the back of crack then around the hex to the quickdraw and that way if you fall it twists into the crack rather than falling out... Quite a good thing to know how to do but you're probably better off with tri-cams or friends if you're doing it lots


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 8:23 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 14, 2007 11:21 pm
Posts: 724
Location: Off World Colonies...
Shoes: Scarpa Stix & Vapors
Lol... I must be behind the times re gear... check out link penises! They're crazy! More moving parts to worry climbers such as Mr Gadd... For those who don't want to google.....

http://www.omegapac.com/op_products_linkcams.html

Just scroll down and roll over the bottom two images! They're mad pieces of gear!

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 11:19 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2007 5:20 pm
Posts: 304
Shoes: Solutions and Cumbres
Apparently link penises aren't all that, Ben Cossey of Committed fame said they're "shit mate" (with an austrailian accent as you might expect) only good for rich punters...

Tri-cams on the other hand are really good (although no one in the club believes me), I have a few, so you can have a go with those some time if you like.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 11:01 am 

Joined: Thu Oct 18, 2007 6:36 pm
Posts: 1023
Location: Selly Oak
Shoes: Boreal Stingma
Tried the cammed hex yesterday at Burbage. Needless to say it stripped and I got a solid kidney punch from a gritstone boulder :(

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 2:48 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 4:49 pm
Posts: 263
Tri-cams are also useful for mountaineering.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 9:12 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 8:07 pm
Posts: 1115
Shoes: katanas
Tom won't rest until every climber loves and swears by tri-cams


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 6:05 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2007 4:56 pm
Posts: 323
Well they are pretty good, if a little fiddly.
Although i've probably only place one no more than 3 times (especially since tom became best friends with his bouldering mat :wink: )


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 6:23 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 10:29 pm
Posts: 707
Shoes: purple ones and yellow ones
Hexes are really called hexcentrics

:thumleft:

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 5:11 pm 
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Shoes: Solutions and Cumbres
I placed between 5 and 10 tricams yesterday.... on one shag, none of them failed...

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 5:26 pm 
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By 'failed' do you mean fell out? or did you actually fall on 5 to 10 tri penises on one route and they didn't pop?


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 5:39 pm 
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Shoes: Solutions and Cumbres
By fail i mean fail to hold a fall... but now you mention it i didn't actually fall on any...

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 5:42 pm 
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but how do you know unless you actually fell on them?? Huh?


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