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Stanage

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Tom H

Post subject: Stanage

Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 6:44 pm

Joined: Sun Feb 22, 2009 12:23 pm
Posts: 111
Shoes: anasazi verdes / red chili spirits

Anyone got any ambitions (climbing) for the weekend?

I'm liking the look of Queersville.

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TOM

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Dexter

Post subject: Re: Stanage

Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 9:30 pm

Joined: Thu Oct 09, 2008 5:08 pm
Posts: 249
Shoes: biceps

flying butress! thats if im not too hungover

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pain is just weakness leaving the body

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AndyCooper

Post subject: Re: Stanage

Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 10:47 pm

Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2008 2:40 am
Posts: 51
Shoes: Barefoot

No excuse dexter, get on it

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JCB

Post subject: Re: Stanage

Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 10:53 pm

Joined: Sun Oct 14, 2007 11:21 pm
Posts: 724
Location: Off World Colonies...
Shoes: Scarpa Stix & Vapors

It depends who I end up climbing with, if we suddenly get a bout of efficiency in climbing routes then I'm just aiming at grades rather than particular routes - 2 VS's 2 HVS's on Sat and a VS then 2HVS's on the sunday [but that is ambitious].

You did mention a nice VS/HVS slab route Tom when we last spoke.. it sounded nice, which one were you talking about?

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"I'm not mad, I just see things differently"
No longer VP

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jay_kay

Post subject: Re: Stanage

Posted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 12:07 am

Joined: Thu Oct 02, 2008 11:17 am
Posts: 675
Shoes: Team 40

Do Ellis' Eliminate and Hargreaves' Original (both VS) if you haven't already done them.

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massive punter

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Tom H

Post subject: Re: Stanage

Posted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 9:24 am

Joined: Sun Feb 22, 2009 12:23 pm
Posts: 111
Shoes: anasazi verdes / red chili spirits

Yeah hargreaves orginal looks sweet.

JCB the route is "leaning buttress direct" HVS 5b, the crux is apparently getting off the floor and onto a ledge, then it is bolder but easier up top, sounds like you and i want to be climbing the same sort of stuff mate so if we got time after making sure the freshers have a blast on some good routes u fancy pairing up?

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TOM

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Gareth C.

Post subject: Re: Stanage

Posted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 3:56 pm

Joined: Thu Oct 18, 2007 6:36 pm
Posts: 1023
Location: Selly Oak
Shoes: Boreal Stingma

Leaning buttress has two distinct cruxes iirc. One off the floor and one ~1/3 height with poor gear. Fluff the first one as much as you like but don't fluff the second.

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I_like_Climbing

Post subject: Re: Stanage

Posted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 5:02 pm

Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2007 12:17 am
Posts: 379
Shoes: Red chilli Sauslitos/5:10 anasazi

If you go to High Neb have a crack at Kelly's Overhang. And then think about how the first ascent was in 1926.

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JCB

Post subject: Re: Stanage

Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 12:15 am

Joined: Sun Oct 14, 2007 11:21 pm
Posts: 724
Location: Off World Colonies...
Shoes: Scarpa Stix & Vapors

I tried Kelly's Overhang.... had to back off it [

] - I made the bridge across the flake, I just couldn't find anything to pull on for my right hand, to rock me over onto my right foot... Oh well, maybe next-time.

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"I'm not mad, I just see things differently"
No longer VP

: But still Vaguely Philippino

FYI: Actions speak louder than wombats

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Mark D

Post subject: Re: Stanage

Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 9:16 am

Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2007 6:28 pm
Posts: 473
Shoes: Flip Flops

Gareth is dead right on leaning buttress, and there is only very poor/no gear after half height.

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Tom H

Post subject: Re: Stanage

Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 11:17 am

Joined: Sun Feb 22, 2009 12:23 pm
Posts: 111
Shoes: anasazi verdes / red chili spirits

Leaning Buttress was grand!

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TOM

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