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 Post subject: Mont Blanc
PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 12:37 pm 

Joined: Thu Nov 13, 2008 8:50 am
Posts: 206
Shoes: 5.10 ASYM
Has anyone done Mont Blanc resently (last two or so summers)? If so what route did you use and what where the conditions? Also did you cross the Grand Couloir and how was it?


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 Post subject: Re: Mont Blanc
PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 12:52 pm 

Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2007 10:35 pm
Posts: 607
I think the last time a UBMC group did Mont Blanc was 3 summers ago in 2006. I wasn't with them so can't help with route and conditions. I do know they missed the cable car so walked from the valley bottom, and did NOT enjoy this!

Good luck if you go for it. UKC forums and the guides office in Chamonix might be useful for more upto date advice.


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 Post subject: Re: Mont Blanc
PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 11:33 am 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 12:10 pm
Posts: 163
I think we did it in 2006. (as in, I think that was the year.) Gouter Route up and down. Best approach is to train it up in the AM - this will mean crossing the G. Coulouir at 2ish but given the nature of the route and timings this is tricky to avoid. Unrope, do not clip to the wire unless it is in the right place - which it won't be, and move confidently and quickly. Have people acting as look outs for you.

Scramble up the rockline to the Gouter hut - then its best to press on either to the ridge behind the hut (tent city) or over the Dome into a hollow (approx 1.5 hrs?) where you could camp/bivvi. This will have the advantage of giving you an hours head start over the masses.

Start the next morning, rope up, steep slog, don't fall off the Bosses Ridge - aim for the summit around 5.30 / 6ish otherwise it will be spoilt by all the other people. Descend asap, c.2 hours to the hut, 1 hour down the rocks (pay attention, this is tiring) - cross the Couloir (REALLY pay attention, ask Stu Ward) then tootle down the train and a pizza in the town at 4ish.

Enjoy.


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