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Gareth C.
 Post subject: Creation Grades
PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 2:43 pm 

Joined: Thu Oct 18, 2007 6:36 pm
Posts: 1023
Location: Selly Oak
Shoes: Boreal Stingma
Apparently according to http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=281943 UBMC members are all better sports climbers than we think!

Thoughts?

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Andy B
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 3:08 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 9:40 pm
Posts: 157
I certainly find that creation's grading is erratic at best. But remember that it is just a guide, and you should certainly not make any judgements on your outdoor sport climbing ability from what you can shag indoors, since they're totally different disciplines.
w.r.t. grades in general, different people will grade climbs differently, depending on their ability. Nobody's perfect in this respect, and route grades should be treated accordingly.

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Marine Tom
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 8:02 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 12:10 pm
Posts: 163
Listening to UKC is very dangerous ground.

Besides, Creation is famous for its erratic grading!
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stokesy
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 10:10 pm 

Joined: Tue Oct 16, 2007 7:23 pm
Posts: 61
Shoes: 5.10 Anasazi Verde
Hmmm, I find creations boulderin grades to b rather ego boostin. I tend to shag bout a grade (brit tech) or so lower at notts. But as the dude above said, only a guide.
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I_like_Climbing
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 1:18 am 

Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2007 12:17 am
Posts: 379
Shoes: Red chilli Sauslitos/5:10 anasazi
I think it's also down to your style of climbing, on the Vertical technical walls and slabs I normally can shag 6a+ and I did a 6b+ last week but on the sustained overhangs I can only manage 5+. Also if you're used to the wall it's gonna be easier.

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Tommy
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 4:11 pm 

Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2007 4:59 pm
Posts: 955
Location: Nuneaton
Shoes: Scarpa Vapour
yeah, give or take a few climbs, i cant shag the same grade on an overhung wall than on a vertical wall. i also do alot better on tecnical stuff rather than strechy / pumpy type climbs. differs byabout 2 grades some times
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sazzle
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 4:41 pm 

Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2007 5:06 pm
Posts: 207
Shoes: la sportiva mythos
stokesy wrote:
the dude above
Aww Tom, you're not as famous as you used to be.
I find that a lot of the 'easier' stuff becomes difficult for me because they involve big reaches, which can be very frustrating.
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alek
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 4:55 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 2:44 pm
Posts: 573
Shoes: Mutants
Tommy wrote:
yeah, give or take a few climbs, i cant shag the same grade on an overhung wall than on a vertical wall. i also do alot better on tecnical stuff rather than strechy / pumpy type climbs. differs byabout 2 grades some times


That's because you're shit and it's a very low grade. and you're creepy too.

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Laurence
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 4:57 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 8:07 pm
Posts: 1115
Shoes: katanas
I don't think it was even Tom that said its only a guide

The moves are probably about as hard but you get tired quicker on overhangs, you have a lot more time to think about the moves and clip in on slabs. Alek loves slabs because it takes him 3 hours to think about how hes going to eat a meal, and longer than that to think about how to bust a move


Last edited by Laurence on Thu Jan 24, 2008 10:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Andy B
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 5:07 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 9:40 pm
Posts: 157
sazzle wrote:
stokesy wrote:
the dude above
Aww Tom, you're not as famous as you used to be.

That was me Sazzle. Seems you're not as sharp as you used to be.

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sazzle
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 1:31 pm 

Joined: Tue Sep 25, 2007 5:06 pm
Posts: 207
Shoes: la sportiva mythos
Who thought I ever was?
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stokesy
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 2:47 pm 

Joined: Tue Oct 16, 2007 7:23 pm
Posts: 61
Shoes: 5.10 Anasazi Verde
Ooooh goody i caused an argument.
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Andy B
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 4:10 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 9:40 pm
Posts: 157
Hardly. This is standard FTR banter.

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